Better Basics, LLC
Box 272
Kinnear, WY 82516
(307)851-9933 cell
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Better Basics, LLC Box 272 Kinnear, WY 82516 (307)851-9933 cell |
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Q & A: Q: How many runs could you get out of the classic hard strings as compared to the old ones? A: The big difference in longevity in the new Classic strings you notice in the practice pen, I'll ty with it until it doesn't feel good anymore- which is around a month or so depending on how much you practice. For competition strings, I'll use about 10 times compared to 5 times of the King strings. So they last way longer than the King Strings. Q :Every time I pull my knot tight and go to put my hands in the air, the "head" of the string hits my left thigh. It really stings and I've had welts, but I know it's not right-I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong A: Keep your left shoulder down while you are tying and finishing your ty- it'll make the head end of the string hit the ground and not your thigh. Q: I'm really losing confidence in ground work; sometimes I have a problem and blow it up to an hour long session then my head isn't in it at all and I didn't get anywhere in the practice session. I'm wondering how I can keep it simple, gain confidence by tying different goats, and learn something from every session. A: When you have a problem in your ground work, single that problem out & just work on it. Slow it down & get it right, then add speed again. Often I will tell myself in practice to "GET IT RIGHT". It's our body, we have control over what it does so I can MAKE myself get it RIGHT. I can also let myself be sloppy & make mistakes- my choice.... Once you get it right several times- QUIT for the practice session. Q: What kind of bit would you recommend for a horse that has no rate when coming to the goat? A: I like a correction bit. You can get different lengths of shank for a little more "whoa" power if needed. I like the Dutton bits, they make are variety of bits with the correction mouthpiece and several different shank lengths. Q: I am tying in 7s 8s and 9s with little mistakes but I want to be faster! how can i add speed? A: To add speed, work on one thing at a time. Sit & ty & do it as fast as you can. Gather as fast as you can, Flank as fast as you can. Then start putting two things together. Gather & ty- try to do it near 1.0 second. Flank and gather, and then flank, gather & ty (try to do it under 2.0 seconds). Getting your muscle memory fast is important, so to get everything to speed up, you need to break it down & get one thing fast by itself, then start adding too it. Don't worry about mistakes- if you continually make one-focus on doing it right, but don't slow down. If it keeps being a problem, then slow it down & work on it before you wrap up the practice session. Think HURRY! :) Q: I had commented earlier on how I am having trouble with adding speed going down to the goat and stepping off. Does your goat tying DVD talk about your dismounts? A: Yes it does Q: What size goat would you recommend for the college girls to tie on? A: Generally I would say goat that weigh between 40 - 55 lbs. are a good practice size goat. But if you know you may be tying smaller or bigger goats at an upcoming rodeo, then try to practice on that size so you are better prepared. If possible try to have a meat goat and a dairy goat for practice, since their bodies feel different. Q: How do you stay motivated to work out? A: The wonderful quote: Motivation is what gets you started & habit is what keeps you going! You schedule working out, practicing, roping the dummy, tying your foot, riding your horse (whatever) into your day if it's important to you. Making it a routine (every day, every other day, whatever that matches your goals & commitment) and then being DISCIPLINED to do it. Finding fun ways to work out help as well- a work out buddy, or Wii, change where you bike/run, change what you are doing to work out. Be creative. Keeping your goals in mind help with the motivation part. At the of a season like the National Jr High Finals or High School finals, feeling burned out is common- especially if it didn't go the way you wanted it too. Taking a break (one month or so off) doesn't hurt anything either. Or find some other rodeos to go to so you continue to have something to work for. Q: I have problems flanking from the leadrope;
I'm not sure what's wrong-maybe I'm too far away or not low enough, but I always
miss the front leg in the air. I think I lose my confidence if I have too much
slack in between the collar and my hand when I jerk the goat. Right then I'm not
sure what my body should be doing, either. Q; How do you train yourself mentally to go on from a mistake in a competition run? A: This is something that you learn in practice. You make sure you keep going with a run in practice (ground work, horse work, or a full practice run) so that you get better at going on with mistakes. Too many girls think they need to be perfect to place/win, but that's not the case- FAST is what counts, so keeping forward momentum in a run after a mistake is crucial time on the clock. Knowing that they also give places, points and money for more than 1st place too keeps me hustling through a run after a mistake. (even thought I'm GOING for 1st :) Q: Do you ever do one on one lessons? A; Yes, if I'm traveling to or from clinics & someone's location isn't too far out of the way, I will do one on one lessons. Q: My horse is ducking to the right of the goat when I run down there. How can I make my horse run straight to the goat? Getting your horse into the arena before competition is important. If possible, ride him where he would be going during the goat tying run. I like to do a few practice dismounts, (slow usually) and then lead him to the fence behind where the goat will be staked. I'll have a grain bucket & his buddy horse there as well, so he has more incentive to go straight & all the way to the fence. Make sure you are stepping off early enough so that you're not pushing him away in the dismount. If your left hand comes up to help support him, he may stay with you better as well, so don't let your left hand drop to his neck as you step off. Also if the ducking off problem isn't helped by working your horse prior to competition in the arena & or supporting him with your left hand (reins), then I'm not opposed to a blinder on the right eye. A bra works well for a quick blinder- cut out the left cup of an underwire bra. The strap can go over his right ear & it will buckle under his throatlatch. Practice a LITTLE with this to make sure he's ok with it. Don't cover his eye for long periods of time- just immediately before your runs- wearing it too much can take away the effectiveness of it. Q: I just graduated form high school and will be starting college in August. Right now I am tying 11 and 12's, do you think its possible for me to be tying 8's by the time I start college? A; Any thing IS possible, but to knock that much time off over a period of two months it will take a lot of hard work. Breaking things down & working on each element separately until you are consistent and fast at that one thing will help. So sit on a goat & work on your ty. Ty correct, then ty as fast as you can. Don't get frustrated with mistakes when you are trying to go fast. Just think about what you are doing & try to do it correctly & fast. Just work on your flank. Flank your goats over and over again, until is perfect and then start working on doing it perfectly and fast. Most time is lost once the girl gets to the goat- so flanking, getting your gather & tying is EVERYTHING! To work on being more consistent from your horse- start off slow- trot down to the goat, step off & run into & flank the goat only. If you can flank perfectly from you horse consistently, then adding the gather and ty is no big deal. You can do this a lot at a lope, fast lope and even a few rodeo runs until you feel awesome with the dismount, timing, and the flank. Putting too much together will cause muscle-mind confusion, frustration and isn't not good for staying positive! Best of luck & work hard! Q; I have my flanking, gathering and tying down great but when it comes to stepping off my horse at a run or even a fast lope I am always afraid I will trip or fall at a fast speed. What can I do to help me with this? A: Break it down, so you're just working on your dismount & you can get confidence in that. I like to go next to a fence. Pick a spot where you want to step off, lope down & do it. Gradually add speed. Remember the faster you are going on your horse, the sooner you'll get there, the sooner you'll need to start stepping off. Don't change anything in your dismount (speed) just because you're going faster on your horse. Then start stepping off at the goat, but don't ty it. Just work on your dismounts by the goat so you get your timing down. Make sure you hustle to your horse's head when you touch down on your landing (run) and get your reins so your horse doesn't learn bad habits of ducking away or speeding up. Plus running up to his head will help you keep your feet moving; also it's a safer spot to be! TALK YOURSELF INTO IT INSTEAD OF OUT OF IT- watch your' thoughts & think only positive thoughts!!! Q: What do you do when a goat tries to horn you and/or run in between your legs? A: The horning part, I don't worry about. That's their way of defending themselves. So it's part of the game. Running between your legs- he should never get there. If you are low running into your goat, it'll be harder for him to see an "out" between your legs. Also if your right hand is pushing his head away (to the left) as you are coming into him, it'll re-direct his attempt. Q: Where can I find a can for goat strings? A: Personally I don't like goat cans for strings, as they are too small and put circles that you don't want in your strings. Storing your strings straight is a better bet, as they'll function correctly. I offer "String Saver" Tubes at clinics for sale for $25.00 that are very useful for storing strings. If you'd like to order one I could ship you one with the cost of the tube & $15.00 in shipping. Q: We were told by a goat director that since
Jordan's horse circles before he takes off she'll be DQ'd at Nationals? A: From my understanding, you are allowed to take one SPIN or
PIVOT if a central gate is not in line with the goat. I would check with a
judge and the national event director PRIOR to the start of the
event/rodeo for complete clarification from the officials. BEST OF LUCK AT
NATIONALS! Q: When you're at a rodeo and the goat isn't across the gate you come in, so you ride down along the fence until you're straight across from the goat. Do you have your horse face the fence and turn him around before you run down or do you go ahead and take off? A: Usually my horse is pretty excited, as they are used to running from the gate. But I'll keep him close to the fence and moving forward, even if his butt is tipped/pointed toward the goat. I like to make a turn or a pivot to the left & then go, so if the gate that I came in is to to the left of the goat, I'll just turn & go, since I'm turning to the left. If the gate is to the right of the goat, I'll ride by the "point" that is straight with the goat & then turn to the left back to the "spot" and go. I like to find landmarks (banners, arena post) something to help me know what is straight & how far I need to ride down the arena fence to make sure I'm lining up correctly. When you're horse is hopping around & is excited it's sometimes easy to let him become the boss & tell you when to go, but it might not be straight. So a landmark will help you get lined up without having to look down the arena for the goat. Q: My horse works great for me in practice, but at the rodeo, he is slow and ducks off. After that in practice it is hard to build both of our confidences back up for the next rodeo. I've struggled with this for two years. A: Getting your horse into the arena before competition is important. If possible, ride him where he would be going during the goat tying run. I like to do a few practice dismounts, (slow usually) and then lead him to the fence behind where the goat will be staked. I'll have a grain bucket & his buddy horse there as well, so he has more incentive to go straight & all the way to the fence. If he's been dogging it running to the goat- I'll run him down there & not step off- just ride him past & into the fence/bucket/buddy. Doing this once or twice should get him a little more excited for what will happen during the run. Doing this will help both problems, but make sure you are stepping off early enough so that you're not pushing him away in the dismount. If your left hand comes up to help support him, he may stay with you better as well. I do like short spurs as well, that way you're feet are more effective. 1" spurs with blunt rowels are nice rodeo spurs. Also if the ducking off problem isn't helped by working your horse prior to competition in the arena & or supporting him with your left hand (reins), then I'm not opposed to a blinder on the right eye. A bra works well for a quick blinder- cut out the left cup of an underwire bra. The strap can go over his right ear & it will buckle under his throatlatch. Practice a LITTLE with this to make sure he's ok with it. Don't cover his eye for long periods of time- just immediately before your runs- wearing it too much can take away the effectiveness of it. Q: I have been having to tie by myself a lot lately, which sometimes I think helps me to deal with goats in any situation, but I was wondering if you had any advice on this since it sometimes gets frustrating? A: Well, I guess sometimes you just have to make due with what you've got. (I never tied/practiced with anyone until my sophomore year of college) But "coach" yourself. Make practice plans- plan out what you're going to work on for a week & make it different each day. For example: Monday- Ty five goats 10 times. Tuesday- Flank and gather 5 goats 10 times each. Wednesday: Ground work- run at the goat on the ground. When you notice yourself slacking or messing up, do two perfect in a row before you can quit. Thursday: Practice runs off your horse and whatever gave you the biggest problem repeatedly, do 10x perfectly after you are done with your horse. Friday: Flank, gather and ty five goats 10 times each.
Q: How many practice (roping) runs do you make during a week with rodeos on the weekends? A: I'll rope more calves during the beginning of the week, like Monday & Tuesday. Wednesday I take fewer & make sure they count. If I have a practice horse, I'll rope only five or six on my rodeo horse Monday & Tuesday, then get on my practice horse and rope more. Wednesday I may rope one or two on the rodeo horse, then finish out on the practice horse with maybe five more. Thursday, I really rope for my horse, scoring, tracking up, whatever needed to give him the best chance of working good at the rodeo and rope very few. I might not even rope on the practice horse Thursday. I'll rope the dummy to get more practice in. (that's with going to the rodeos Friday- Sunday). If it's a long haul, Monday the rodeo horse may get the day off. Q: My new horse is afraid to run toward the goat. Do you have any suggestions? A: I would stake a goat out & lope a lot of circles around the goat. Starting with big circles down to small- totally ignoring the fact that the goat is there & just ride, get your horse broke & exercise him. I would only go to the left, since that's the side your horse should see the goat when using him for goat tying. Hauling horses with goats is an amazing quick, "get used to". With hauling to clinics, all our horses have learned how to haul with loose goats in the trailer, therefore none of them worry about the goat when he's on a rope in the arena. Q: At a rodeo this past weekend, I found my muscles cold and I wasn't able to warm up because of lack of space. My run wasn't great. Do you ever warm up before your runs? A: Always! I like to warm up by stretching, jogging some, flanking & tying (I bring one or two goats to every rodeo- bring the easiest, most confidence building goats you own!) And then an event before, I'll stay off my horse, leading him around & jumping around to stay loose until one or two girls before me. I don't want to ever sit still & let my muscles get cold- no matter what the weather. You don't need a lot of space. I've often flanked & tyed my practice goat in the trailer, as it was the most suitable (driest, softest) spot at times. You can be creative in finding spots to stay loose that are still close to the arena gate! Q: I have a problem, my horse is ducking to the right as i am hanging off the side to get off. I've tried the bucket of grain for him to run to, that's not working. What do i need to do to fix this ? Is it him or me? I am clueless. By the way I loved your clinic it really helped me. A: First of all make sure your left hand is holding the reins UP in efforts of guiding your horse straight while you are dismounting. If it's going down to his neck, you are allowing him to move out on you. Your reins need to be snug enough so that you can guide him easily. If they are too long, he'll still be able to step out on you. You also want to make sure that you are staying really close to him with your body (right hip) during the entire dismount so that you are not pushing him away. Next I would ride down (trot first, then gradually add speed) slide out to the frog position, hold it & ride by. Make sure you guide with your left hand/rein hand. If he's doing good when you are frogging, hold the frog position for a stride or two, then slide down into the hip position- hold that & ride by. If he does good in the hip position then start lowering yourself down. Eventually frog for a stride or two, hip for a stride or two and then lower yourself down & lead him by. Anytime he wants to step away, stay in that position & ride him through. I'll do this at all speeds in various spots on the way to the goat. I'd also check for soundness. Sometimes as the rodeo season goes on, horses will get sore, causing them to move out. If we are correct in our position, this usually helps support our weight, but they still can get sore. Maybe change saddle pads, saddles (if possible) and see if that helps him at all. Run your fingers down his back and see if he's sensitive anywhere. Sometimes butte will help get you through the rest of the season. I'm not opposed to blinders either., as a last resort. If it'll help me win or give me confidence that I can win, I'll use them. Covering the right eye can sometimes help a horse that's not hurting stay straight. An easy blinder is a bra. Get an underwire bra of decent cup size, cut the left cup out & the bra strap can go over his ear & the straps connect under his throatlatch. Practice with it once to see how he reacts. He may hang tight to you, so lining up is really important. If he's ok with it, use it in competition, but try to let him wear it too much at home or at the rodeo, so it doesn't loose it's effect. Q: Did you switch your goat strings to Classic? Are they the same as your original ones? A: Yes, I'm switching strings. Going with Classic. They are similar to the 'old' ones but should be will be more consistent in lay and have more longevity. I've (we've) tried & tested the final "drafts" this week (April 12th) and were very pleased with them, so the "mass production" of strings should be under way. I'm picking up 200 -500 strings for starters this upcoming weekend (April 23rd) so I should be able to start sending them out the 27th to those of interest. Price is TBD, but should be in the same range as the old ones. I will be sending out postcards to everyone on the mailing list to notify of where you can purchase the new strings- right here will be one spot, but there may be others Classic dealers able to sell them as well (?)- Will work out that detail Friday with Classic. I think we'll all be pleased with the switch! Q: Now that correctness and consistency is mastered, my main concern is speed. How can I make goat tying runs faster? A: I like the stop watch :) I'll time just my ty, (try to get it under .7 seconds) just my flank, (try to be under .7 seconds) my flank, gather & ty, (try to be under 2 seconds) running to the goat (10 feet before the stake to the goat), ( a little over 1 second) time how fast on the ground (10' from the stake), (3's on a straight goat, low 4's on a runner) how fast my horse is going down (from 100' to where I step off) ( under 2 seconds for sure) to my whole run. (go for 7's on 100' run) The stop watch doesn't lie so it's a great motivator to get you going! I'll set personal goals- have to do something under such a time 2x before I quit for the nite. (usually do this a lot with ground work, not so much on the horse to keep him from getting silly) One thing I did with the college girls, time their whole run & If they clocked over 7.5 seconds, they had to run the same distance on foot & ty the goat under 10 seconds before they could try again on their horse. It was very effective!
Winners will keep challenging themselves, so the stopwatch is a great tool. Those that don't like to be pushed will dread the stopwatch!
Q: I have my dismount down good but when I get to the goat my flank doesn't go good. I can never get the legs right. When I get the legs and start to tie then everything goes good. Can you help me learn how to work on my flank? A: A good flank starts with good position. If you are close to your goat before you attempt to pick him out of the ground, it helps ALOT. I like my left foot IN FRONT both of the goat's front legs, bend in my left knee and in his chest so that he's head is over my left thigh. I want my right foot behind his back legs, but my knee is turned in so I can get it under his belly. Your right ankle will be close to touching the ground to get your right knee is position. My right hand is in the flank area (my right knee and right hand are like a magnet- opposite side of where my right hand is- with the goat in between like paper). My left hand is on the forearm above the knee cap. My hips are down & chest up, so I'm strong. I'll rotate my hips under and through to the goat's body to pop/bump which will knock the goat's legs out from under him. If you are doing this right, you'll actually be getting lower or going down a little while you pop his legs. Then I push with both hands to make the goat land flat, my knees follow him down so there's no space between the goat's body & my knees. Both of my knees land on the outside of my hands- so left knee will be on the shoulder, right knee on the thigh of the goat. My toes are turned out so my weight is back in my hips, not in my knees- helps keep the goat's legs out and straight. Do this slow alot to gain body control of yourself and the goat. Once it starts going good slow, then start speeding it up. When it falls apart again, go slow to get it right. Flanking is everything, so spend time on it! Q: What does it mean if you drop your string from your mouth too fast in the tie? I do this and end up losing it. A: A couple of things can be going on. The main one could be your left hand is probably not coming up to your mouth, you may just be reaching around for your string instead of UP to your mouth. Also you could be sitting too upright, causing you to reach around for your string instead of up. So try getting your head lower (or keep it low- you may be rising up a little bit in anticipation of being done!) & really work on your left hand coming all the way up to your mouth. (I once gave myself a fat lip while working on this :) But I knew I was definitely reaching up to my mouth then! ) Q: Hi Lynn after you clinic Maddy and I have this debate as to where to line her horse up if she has to spin him to go. A lot of arenas set up two goats so she has to get him lined up and he is too excited to just walk and face the goat so she spins him. What should be her focus point, she said you said two steps to the right of the goat but now she is confused if that is facing away from the goat or facing the goat? Also do you spin the same way right or left each time? A: I always turn my horse to the left and then go. So if my goat is on the right side of the arena, I can walk in along the fence, and find my landmark on the fence then turn to the left & go. If I'm on the left goat then I'll ride past my landmark so when I turn to the left, I'll be lined up. To find my landmark, I'll stand where the goat would be & look down the arena to where I'll be coming in and find a land mark (a certain panel, banner, etc..) that's a little bit to the left of the stake. So when I'm mounted on my horse, I'd actually be a tiny bit to the right of the goat's stake, so my horse has a straight shot by the goat. Q: Hey Lynn this is LeighAnn from New Mexico. I'm getting better at the flanking and everything, but when I'm gathering, it seems that when I bring the back legs across to cross the front leg, the back legs are hitting the front leg that is on the ground, and or splitting between the front leg, so it like a back leg, then a front leg in the middle, and a back leg on the bottom. It also seems that the back legs are hitting the ground and staying there, they aren't really bouncing, so I'm probably not pushing the goat all the way down to the ground or not sitting in my but enough, but I'm not positive, but I don't know why the legs are splitting like that. Well my next junior high rodeo is this weekend, but we are leaving tomorrow, so talk to you later! Thanks!!! A: Hey LeighAnn! :) You're kind of on the right track- the back legs aren't bouncing because of where your weight/pressure is. It's too far forward in your right knee, rock back into your hips more & those back legs should bounce a little bit better. Also make sure you are using your hips at the beginning of your flank, since it's easier to land 'in your butt' then instead of your knees. Then to quit splitting the legs- If you are splitting them with the bottom back leg on top, the front leg & then the top back leg on bottom- it's because of weight in your knee. Don't drop pressure into your right knee when reaching for the back legs- stay back in your hips, but really bend at the waist to get those legs THEN drop to your knee after your right hand moves the back legs past your knee. Make sure you use your front leg too- drive it down & under the back legs. If you are just splitting them with the front leg in the middle- it's because not using your front leg enough to help the gather- so drive it down & under the back legs. :) Q: I'm having trouble pulling my slack in breakaway practice. This is really slowing me up. How can I improve my times? A: Usually girls miss their slack because they sit down too soon. If you stay up right after you deliver your rope, your slack will be out in front of you, near your right hand. But if you sit before you get your slack it will be too far out in front & you won't be able to pull it. So instead, sit WHILE pulling your slack. Once the slack gets tight on the calf's neck, pitching it back will help your rope break quicker from your horn, but you've got to get your slack completely tight on the calf's neck or you could pitch your loop off from the calf's neck. Q: Cost of clinic? A: Total goat tying clinic cost is $250.00 The deposit is $100 & the remaining balance of $150 is paid at the start of the clinic. Q: I am having trouble getting my string out quickly from my belt loop. I am only 11 an small for my age, so I realize my loops are not as big as others. I was starting a bad habit of sliding from my mouth down to my hip then pulling it out to get leverage. When I pull straight out from my mouth, it hangs. Do you have any suggestions? I have been working hard and improving since my clinic with you in Vernon, and this is just a small problem I am having. A: You will have to slide a little bit from your mouth down to the mid section of your body or to your waist so that you're pulling at the tail end of your string to get it out of your belt loop. Your hand can go from your mouth, down your body & then out to the side without wasting time. Just make sure your hand isn't sliding behind you, as that is wasted time. Make sure if you are doubling your string over in your belt loop that it's a small bubble back there, so you're not having to pull so much string through it. Or just run your string through without doubling it over will help it not get stuck as well, especially for smaller goat tyers. It's not as quick as doubling it over, but it's quicker than not being able to get your string out! :) Q: Most horses have a problem of ducking off to the right, but my horse tends to duck in front of me to the left. He normally ends up running in front of me as soon as I step off. Any suggestions on how to fix that?? A; I would work with my horse the same way basically either direction he ducked off. I would start off by loping him down, then sliding out into the frog position (right foot on hindquarters, crotch to saddle, good bend in left leg) & I would RAISE my left hand (rein hand) up to guide him straight though. Usually if we pick UP on our rein hand, we are able to direct our horses in the correct direction. Our reins need to be short (not tight) so that we have better control of what our horses do. With ducking horses, we have to learn how to ride WHILE dismounting. After my horse did good with frogging by & going straight, I would slide from the frog to the hip position (right hip into fender of saddle, lean upper body over saddle slightly for more balance if needed) & ride him by that way. Again keeping left hand up on reins guiding him straight. If that's going good, then I could go from the frog, to the hip to sliding down to step off. When I touch down with both feet, I hustle to get up to my horse's head & if he's pushing into me there, I'll stick up my right arm (bend it but make it stiff & strong) & push my horse's head out of the way if he's pushing into me. If he doesn't respect my space, I'll be more forceful, but only enough to make him respond as I don't want to scare him, just make him respect my space. My horses have to respect my space everytime I handle them-- from catching, to graining to loading in the trailer- if they respect my space in everyday handling, it makes it easier for them to respect my space when goat tying. Also on horses that push left while dismounting, keep the horse's focus on you & what you are doing. Don't let them 'drift off" with their attention. Especially nickering or pricking their ears at something outside of the arena. Keep their focus on what you're doing. Usually horses that cut in front of you are looking for a way out (literally). But if from my experiences, if we learn how to ride WHILE dismounting & then make them respect us, the problem of cutting in front is taken care of. Note on frogging - start your frog position where you normally start to dismount. Q: How can you practice for goat tying when you haven't stepped off a horse all winter, there is still snow on the ground, and indoor arenas are limited? Is there a different way to look at practicing? A: 90% of my practice is ground work; so you don't need much space for that. Back in High School, I used to flank & ty in the corner of the hay barn in the winter time in Minnesota. I'd practice for as long as I could stand being cold, then go warm up and come back out and practice some more. I have a good friend that put a cheap Wal-Mart rug down in a corner of their garage & she flank & tied in there all winter. So you may have to be creative in finding a place to practice, but there's always a spot. I practice flanking and tying IN the goat pen rather than taking them to the arena if I'm just going to flank & ty, that way I can do several goats & not have to take the time to get them all to the arena. Practice sessions don't have to be long- 10 to 20 minutes of flanking & tying is a pretty good work out. If things are going good- work on getting it faster. Everyone can always work on SPEED. As for stepping off, I'd rather work on being in shape. Usually if you are in good shape & you've already master the dismount technically, you can step off no problem even without practicing it.
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This site was last updated 07/28/10
